For Women: The Chemise and Kirtle
- The Chemise: Like men, women wore a linen chemise as their foundational undergarment. The women’s chemise was typically longer, reaching the ankles, and looser to accommodate the outer layers of gowns and skirts.
- The Kirtle: Over the chemise, women might wear a kirtle—a fitted underdress that could serve as both underwear and outerwear depending on its fabric and decoration. Kirtles were often made of wool or fine linen, with long sleeves, and shaped to fit the body more closely than the chemise.
- Additional Layers: Depending on status and weather, women might wear additional petticoats or underskirts, which added warmth and volume to the outer gowns.
Linen: The Fabric of Choice
Linen was the primary fabric used for medieval underwear. Its natural fibers are breathable and moisture-wicking, making it ideal for garments worn close to the skin. Linen was produced by spinning and weaving flax fibers, a process well-developed in Flanders (the region around Bruges) during the 14th century.
Linen undergarments were often hand-sewn from rectangular pieces of fabric to minimize waste and facilitate repair. Seams were typically plain, and any decoration was rare, reserved only for the wealthiest who could afford embroidery.
Wool and Silk: Outer Layers Only
Wool was the most common material for outerwear due to its warmth and availability. Silk was a luxury imported fabric worn by the nobility and wealthy merchants. Neither were typically used for underwear because wool is coarse and itchy against bare skin, and silk was too expensive to wear beneath garments hidden from view. shutdown123